This write up was submitted by Fredi Engelberg [fredie@netvision.net.il]
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October 2010
If anyone still has any doubts that there is an authentic Israeli cuisine, or Jerusalem-style food, one has to look no farther than the new Chef restaurant LARA, on the up and coming Shimon Ben-Shetach Mall, off Nachalat Shiva.  Here, Chef Lior Hefzedi orchestrates, every evening, over the amazing fusion food that is uniquely Israeli a combination of the best local ingredients with technique and inspiration from grandmothers kitchens wherever Jews lived. After having trained abroad, Lior returned to Jerusalem to learn the secrets of local ingredients from Chef Ezra Kedem. After a four year stint at Canela, he is now branding his own style. And what style and class! Lior conducts his kitchen staff in an open kitchen. Here is a chef who has nothing to hide. Every evening they put on a show and really look like they are enjoying themselves, even down to wearing identical hats. In fact, the best seats in the house are at the bar. Even if you chose to eat at a table, indoors or out, it is worth moving to the bar for dessert to catch the action.
LARA, initials of Liors children, (and we thought it was after Lara in Dr. Zhivago!!) is in a beautifully restored old stone building. If these stones could talk, they would tell you that Zev Jabotinsky lived upstairs. We, however, chose to eat al fresco, on a perfect Jerusalem evening. Needless to say, seeing and being seen is part and parcel of dinner.
LARA is a bistro, so you will find familiar dishes along with more daring entrees. There is a big emphasis on organ meats, i.e., liver, brain, sweetbreads and tongue. Now before you turn up your nose, they are definitely worth a try. We were a party of four, so we tried the sweetbreads and brain (nervous brain on the menu). Though the sauces were quite similar, the tastes and textures were new, and exciting and future favorites. We also had to order a pasta dish because the pasta was made in-house. Fresh-made pasta has no resemblance to the dry package stuff. The rough cut pasta came with a fresh tomato sauce with basil, garlic and olives. It was light and refreshing. The sweetbreads came with mangold and zaatar and harrissa. We also had a fish entre fresh sea fish, chopped and served as fish balls with Israeli salad and tabbouleh. All the entrees were so interesting, that one could make a meal just from these. There is also risotto, polenta and old fashioned kabobs (hamburgers for the Ashkenazim) all with a Mediterranean or Yerushalmi twist. Lior and staff are very accommodating and out to please. They will mix and match side dishes. Lior even told us he has made schnitzel for the kids.
The main courses are just as innovative and enticing. There are many fish dishes and vegetarian dishes. We had a colorful dish of black eggplant ravioli with seared beetroot and green beans. We also had chicken livers with pears and dates in a wine sauce served with potato puree. You can be sure we soaked up every last drop of gravy. We also had the lamb stew, also with locally grown and raised ingredients. How blessed are we that all our produce doesnt travel more than 100 kilometers to our plates! Along with these unusual dishes there  are steaks and fish dishes. All come with creative side dishes like asparagus puree, marrow bone, and lemon cream for the fish.
If you are one to look at the dessert menu first, you wont be disappointed. Here too, there is a creative touch. Instead of tart tatin, there is a Middle Eastern apple tart with kadaif. Instead of potato bourekas, filo dough is used to make chocolate bourekas. Tapioca is also on the menu, but unfortunately was not available the night we dined. Another local variation was the technique of gnocchi but made with chocolate. All the desserts came with vanilla ice cream.
BOTTOM LINE
For an adventure in local Israeli-Jerusalem cooking, this was an enlightening experience. Do expect the unusual, different tastes and different combinations. Be curious and open and you will be rewarded with a night to remember.
PARKING
Two hours free parking at the Mamilla Mall. It is a five minute walk away.
PRICES
First course, 38-48sh
Main courses, 78-118sh
Desserts, 32-42sh
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