Revisited May 2016
|October 2016. Goshen has moved to a new location at 30 Nachalat Binyamin. This is a much larger restaurant with private rooms.
Goshen is a heavy-duty meat restaurant, where meat is taken very seriously. They know how to age them and care for meats, and they are proud of their know-how. After all, they had the best teachers – Dekel and Chen are veterans of Papagaio, the king of meat restaurants. They have catapulted this experience into Goshen, making it one of the most popular kosher restaurants in Tel Aviv. If you are looking for a great place to eat or go out with friends, Goshen is the place.
We arrived at Goshen at 7pm on a Monday. This is an early hour for Tel Aviv dining and a traditionally slow day at restaurants. Not so at Goshen. At this early hour the room was already half full. By the time we left at 9, people were waiting at the entrance for tables. There were several tables with couples, but many people came with small groups of 8 or 9 people.
The magic word at Goshen is “sharing.” Large tables can order a la carte items and share their dishes, or they can order the tasting menu which includes 6 starters and a cauldron of meat at 500 gr of meat per person and a dessert for each diner (NIS 170 – 220pp depending on the choices).
We began our meal with the large focaccia topped with sea salt, served with two dips, tomato salsa and balsamic vinegar in olive oil. Then we tried several courses from the starter menu. Each dish is special, and memorable. The signature dish at Goshen is the Breasaola Goose Liver. This is a fantastic dish of cured sirloin that is marinated with herbs, and topped with slices of foie gras brulee. I couldn’t get enough of this dish, which I have never seen at any other restaurant. The sirloin carpaccio, cured in lemon juice, olive oil and balsamic vinegar, was chewy and tasty. I used to be hesitant about carpaccio, but in fact it is not raw meat, any more than smoked salmon or pickled herring are raw. Liver is one of my favorite meats, and the liver dish included four grilled chicken livers, perfectly cooked, soft and tasty. Alongside these meat options is a whimsical platter of Lollipop Chicken Wings, sculpted and breaded to resemble lollipops with sticks in the air. These were perfect for grabbing and nibbling, served in a bit of sweet port sauce.
There is a party-pooper in every group, and for those non-meat eaters Goshen offers a large market salad with a very nice dressing. Another veggie alternative is mushroom ravioli with truffles flavored with herbs.
All the Goshen starters are special and delicious. If you are sharing with a group, you can taste 6 of them without overloading. Remember that crazy delicious main courses follow the starters, so ….
For our main courses we chose the Angus Spare Ribs, and filet of salmon, both served with a puree of root vegetables. I was expecting ribs on the bone, so I was surprised to receive a plate of four steaks on a bed of puree with gravy, but checking with the waiter, I verified that these were in fact spare ribs off the bone and grilled. Actually they tasted more like good steaks, cooked medium - pink inside, dark outside with clear grill marks, with no obvious fat.
The meat was nicely peppered, and did not need further seasoning. The meat was accompanied by chimichurri and harif, a very hot sauce. I used both sparingly, but mostly I ate the meat and puree the way the chef intended. I had a light subtle German beer to accompany the meat dishes. The salmon dish was nicely presented with a fillet of fish on a bed of puree. The salmon was cooked thoroughly, as requested, and also peppered on top, which gave it a nice flavor.
Groups sharing were served their main courses in huge cauldrons filled to the top with different meats. These are placed in the center of the table on warming trays and folks can dig in from all sides. This adds some fun to an otherwise delicious dinner.
Center meat platter warming on table
Who needs dessert after a meal like that? We were persuaded to try two of the outstanding parve desserts. The chocolate volcanoes were hot, creamy and very chocolatey, and the hot cherry crumb pie was sweet and pleasant. Each came with a scoop of cookies and cream ice cream.
Service at Goshen is fast and courteous. There is an unusually good ratio of service staff to tables, with extra help to bus and clean up. This helps make the total experience very positive. The décor is modern; the room is well lit, and the music is not intrusive.
Party rooms: Make your simcha at Goshen in their party rooms at 30 Nachalat Binyamin. See the eLuna smachot section.
Parking: There is parking in a garage directly across the street. After 6, parking is 20 shekels for the evening, but only 10 shekels if you tell them that you are there for the Goshen restaurant.
From the Menu: Focaccia 22 shekels, Bresaola NIS 58, Lollipop Wings NIS 36, Sirloin Carpaccio NIS 44, Roasted Chicken Livers NIS 38, Angus Spare Ribs NIS 130, Norwegian Salmon NIS 86, tasting menu NIS 170 – 220 per person.
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