June 03
Don't
let the name of this new restaurant mislead you. "Hataboun vehamangal"
is not, as it might sound, a typical Middle Eastern "al ha'esh" fast
food restaurant. Although the service maybe a little too fast and the
food is certainly Middle Eastern, the difference is in the thousands
of shekels invested in interior design, resulting in a pleasant, clean
and inviting atmosphere for family dining.
And family dining is really what this place is about. It's cheap enough
for a midweek meal when you don't fancy cooking, yet special enough
for a family celebration or business lunch. In fact, there is even a
private room at the back of the restaurant for parties of up to 25 people,
suitable for business meetings and birthday celebrations (bring your
own balloons and reserve in advance!).
The interior design is very appealing, with dark mahogany tables and
chairs, screens dividing the large floor area, marble floors, acoustic
ceiling, a small bar area and a large counter overlooking the kitchens.
The bathrooms (always a good indication of the standards of the place)
are spotlessly clean and beautifully appointed, with the very best chrome
fittings.
The menu (English and Hebrew) is extensive, without overkill and features
the regular dishes to be found in this type of grill restaurant. As
you sit at your table, one of the many uniformed waiters arrives with
a large selection of salads. Beware! These are not on the house, rather
you can pay for those you select (2NIS each) or take the whole lot for
12 NIS per head, which includes tea or coffee and baklawa at the end
of the meal.
The salads include such favorites as falafel, corn, pickled white and
red cabbage, coleslaw, raw and cooked carrots, fried eggplant, eggplant
in mayonnaise and in tehina, cucumber in dill, roasted peppers, pickles,
etc. Although I was assured the salads were home-made, I found them
rather bland, with the obvious exception of the schug. However, refills
were frequently offered. No chance of leaving here hungry!
Crispy laffa and delicious pitta, drizzled with olive oil and za'atar,
are served, still warm from the taboun. An obvious and unnecessary omission
from the 20+ salad selection is humus, which I think is a staple of
any "al ha'esh" meal. However, a tasty humus is yours for 15 NIS, or
a little more if you like the addition of pinenuts (20 NIS) or hot mushrooms
(25 NIS). Other first course options include a variety of soups (20-30
NIS).
Main course meats include several skewer options, such as beef, chicken
liver, spring chicken, kebab, turkey, goose liver and tonsils - that's
what it says on the menu! (18 -30 NIS). My skewer of spring chicken
was very tender and lightly spiced, and the beef kebab - a specialty
of the house - was also delicious, with just the right blend of seasoning
and fresh herbs. Side orders must be placed separately for the skewers
- choose from, among others, French fries, rice, vegetable salad and
rice and beans. Chargrilled tomatoes and onions were also served on
our table.
Other options for main course are priced with a selection of two side
orders. My dining companion enjoyed his grilled chicken breast, also
lightly spiced, and particularly liked the piquant Jerusalem salad that
accompanied the main dish - diced fresh tomatoes with green chilli.
Another house specialty is the fried chicken liver and onions. Slightly
more expensive platters include beef steak (55 NIS), lamb chops, fillet
steak and Denis fish. These range from NIS 48 - NIS 63.
There is no dessert menu, but the baklawa served with our tea and coffee
was sufficiently sweet to temper anyone's craving for dessert. In keeping
with the finer points of style in this restaurant, the (fresh) mint
tea was served in a small glass and the coffee in an authentic Turkish
coffee pot. A nice finishing touch to a pleasant meal.
You can also choose to eat at the bar, with most menu options available
at prices slightly lower than the regular restaurant. The special opening
offer of two skewers in a laffa with a can of soft drink for just 20
NIS is understandably popular. A delivery service is now available -
free with a minimum order of 50 NIS.
If you think you've seen the restaurant's attractive logo somewhere
else, you're right. This is the second of what the owners hope will
be a successful chain. The first restaurant has been open for over a
decade in Tel Aviv, and has been kosher for the past few months.
Free underground parking (entrance to the car park from Bar Ilan Street.)
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